Showing posts with label United Kingdom. Show all posts
Showing posts with label United Kingdom. Show all posts

Kew, That Was Close

Or, Why Botanical Gardens are Terrifying

I know without even asking that there are those of you who think botanical gardens are harmless, even pleasant or maybe delightful.  A place to take your mother-in-law for a nice afternoon or to exit the hubbub of the city. But OH, you would be wrong. I learned the truly sinister nature of these expansive acres of land dedicated to biology, these enormous gatherings of plants when, in May 2010, my friend Brittany and I took our lives in our hands. We visited Kew... Gardens... dun dun dunnnnn.

Furry, velvety, waxy, drooping, fragrant, vibrant, edible... vines, flowers, trees, shrubs, in various stages of growth and bloom. That is precisely what freaks me out about botanical gardens: these plants are all growing, and breathing, and alive. I mean, if they're not sentient yet, they're close. Some looked like they were from Jurassic Park, the small cousin of a plant that is capable of eating me. The creatures that survived and thrived here were exotic and strange, like the peacock with the brilliant blue head and the monster hens by the building containing the Marianna North paintings. Come with us on our journey through Kew Gardens, a "plant kingdom" creeping in on London from a current distance of less than ten miles.

That calm, smiling face was a facade! I was quaking in my boots Franco Sarto sandals. 

Don't get too close, Brit!

You may well wonder, "What is a chicken doing all the way out here, in Kew?" But take a look at it's monstrous feet. No wonder it thrives there.

We climbed into the air, sixty feet high onto the Treetop Walkway... the trees had anticipated our escape attempt and outgrown the path. 

 Gorgeous flowers in the Temperate House (they almost have me fooled).

Brit, looking nonchalant. She does not yet realize that two innocent-looking plants have crawled behind her ear... 



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NB: This article is obviously a joke. I am not deathly afraid of nature. I do highly recommend a visit to the Kew Royal Botanical Gardens if you ever find yourself in London for more than a couple of days. Visit Kew's website for more information.


The Falmouth Oyster Festival

I REMEMBER driving to Falmouth in Cornwall on the southwestern tip of England for the Oyster Festival with my Mom and stepfather Jamie. It was very crowded inside but the music was lively and the food and drink were excellent.




Nom nom... or slurp slurp maybe? 

Afterwards we challenged ourselves to walk all the way up to the erstwhile English fort on the top of the highest hill... The only thing that kept me going was the ice cream vendor three quarters of the way up. I bought my new favorite flavor (honeycomb) and took in the view of the harbor while waiting for the sugar high that would carry my weary legs the rest of the way.



Falmouth Port is the deepest harbor in western Europe


The fortress at Pendennis Castle, built by Henry VIII in the 1540s

English Countryside

The English Countryside in October. Will I see you again?









That's me, driving on the left!

Jubilee!

It's the Queen's Diamond Jubilee! Of course I'm watching Her Majesty's progress down the Thames (wearing my costume jewels, drinking coffee from a teacup) and thinking about London. 




Photos: Westminster Abbey, a flag on display in Notting Hill, the view of Westminster Clock Tower (aka Big Ben) from Trafalgar Square. I just learned that the tower is to be renamed "Elizabeth Tower" in honor of the Queen's Jubilee. Read about it here. 

The Orangery at Kensington Palace

This is a flashback to a traditional afternoon tea with my Mom and stepdad Jamie. They visited England for two weeks during my semester abroad in London and had a great time. Posts to come: our weekend in Devon; a drive down the coast to the Oyster Festival at Falmouth in Cornwall; tours of Windsor Castle, Stonehenge, and Oxford; and so much more. Jamie is actually an enthusiastic photographer so once I get my hands on the hundreds of pictures he took, there will be several long, heavily illustrated posts!

We took the tube to Hyde Park Corner, rented bikes, and spent close to an hour on the biking paths throughout the Park. At the Orangery, we sipped chamomile (me), Earl Grey (Mom), and wild berry tea (Jamie). We also ordered one of the three-tiered servers of tea sandwiches, mini tartelettes, and scones with jam and clotted cream.

Our waitress was kind enough to snap a photo for us, though later she confessed that her manager warned her not to take any more at this angle. She had accidentally photographed Prince Michael of Kent - the Queen's cousin - who was seated just behind us! He's the bearded man enjoying his soup in the background.

Sitting down at teatime

In the gardens

London Love Letter

Hello, all.

I'm sorry for not writing as much as I should recently, but to be honest, my laptop is broken (dropped it as I was climbing the ladder to my loft bed and strangely now it's acting really finicky) and preparing for my final projects/exams is time consuming. This is a very busy and exciting time in my life and it's hard to sit down and just blog. Even this entry is not a true blog post! I cheated and copied an essay that I've already written below. Ohh, the shame of not posting original content!

At CAPA's departure reception I found out that I had been rewarded a Record of Achievement, which basically rewards involvement and cultural participation in the host city. I wanted to share with you the short essay that I submitted with my application. It's a little corny, but with only six days left in London I'm feeling pretty emotional and I think corny is okay, maybe even necessary, under the circumstances.

"The very first thing I did after arriving at my flat near Waterloo was to turn around and walk back out the front door. I hadn't gone very far, only two blocks, when I reached the south bank of the Thames. The fantastic sight that had me rooted to the spot with incredulity is now my favorite view in all of London. Directly across the bridge is the West End, to my left are the Houses of Parliament, and to my right is the City. On that first day, what that demonstrated to me was this: London is a true city - a thriving metropolis that is the social center, political capitol, and financial hub of England.

Several days later, I took the Jubilee line north to Primrose Hill for a sweeping view of London. It was a radical change of perspective, and one that I didn't fully appreciate at the time. I spent my first rainy afternoon wandering around the countercultural Camden Town Market. I'll never forget that sensory assault! The smell of fragrant Chinese, Indian, Mexican, and Italian food... the sight of burlesque, goth, 50s style, punk, and ethnic clothing.. the pierced and tattooed youth. That's Camden Town. A tour of the State Rooms at Buckingham Palace was perhaps the perfect foil to that experience. The Palace, which serves as both residence and office of the British monarch, is an impressive, stately building. The interior was amazing - immaculate, elegant, and dignified. I still dream about those rooms. Lying beneath the white sheets of my functional loft bed I picture their extravagance and their color. Buckingham Palace is an iconic sight, but so too is the Globe Theater where I had the opportunity to watch Much Ado About Nothing later that week. The evening before the performance, my literature professor gave a special lecture in which he presented a brief Shakespeare biography, prompted us all to imagine what English society would have been like at the turn of the seventeenth century, and praised the flexibility and dynamism of the English language. By the end, I was beyond excited to experience Much Ado from a groundlings point-of-view, and the next day I watched enchanted as the play described to us the night before came to life.

I chose these three experiences because of their contrast, and more importantly, because they are all equally valid images of what is quintessentially London. The alternative scene in Camden Town, the tradition and decorum of Buckingham Palace, and the performing arts at the Globe Theater combine to form the rich picture I now have of this city. I mentioned that I didn't fully appreciate the importance of those first two views of London, one central and one distant. Now that I have explored the city, I recognize their significance. The change of perspective was important to understand that although I live at the center of the city, London is expansive and full of niches and subcultures and secrets. They are all important parts of what London truly is. Once I was told that there was something for everyone in this city, and I hoped there would be something for me. On that first day, standing at the edge of the river, I thought London was beautiful because of the architecture and the glittering water and the music of the street performers. It was purely aesthetic and anticipatory Now, London is beautiful because I have memories here. Those buildings and that river provoke an emotional reaction. When I stand there, I know that just beyond the hotels and gardens that line the river is Buckingham Palace, where Queen Elizabeth II may be working at that moment, and three miles beyond that is Camden Town, where someone may be writing music or getting a tattoo at that moment. Down the river is Sean Wannamaker's Globe Theater replica, where I will be going to see my BFA flatmates will perform A Winter's Tale on the day before Thanksgiving. I feel I have a family, I feel I have a home, and they both exist in London - indeed, in a way, they are London."

Scotland

England and Scotland have a complicated relationship (duhh).

Leaving aside the long, violent struggle between the English and the Scots (have you seen Braveheart?) to focus on the present, big things are brewing up in Edinburgh that might mean the end of the "United" Kingdom.

In the briefest summary possible: The Acts of Union in 1707 joined the two kingdoms, forming "Great Britain." All decisions concerning Scotland were henceforth decided by the Parliament of Great Britain in Westminster, London. The Scotland Act of 1998 established a separate, devolved Scottish Parliament based in Edinburgh. In May of this year the Scottish National Party won a majority in the Scottish Parliament. The SNP is a center-left political party whose main platform is Scottish independence. They released plans for a referendum to become independent from the United Kingdom tentatively scheduled for 2015. I'm no expert, and can't definitively say whether this referendum will happen or not, in 2015 or in the future, but it seems very possible that within my lifetime, Scotland will secede from the United Kingdom. Just something to think about.

Anyhow, I decided to visit England's northern neighbor, land of haggis and bagpipes, of clans and heather and highlands, for a weekend jaunt with my roommate Jill. To be honest, it was an impulse decision. Jill had planned her solo trip weeks in advance, but easily convinced me to tag along at the last minute - I bought a ticket on the overnight bus two hours before it was scheduled to depart from London Victoria coach station, haphazardly threw some jeans and sweaters in a backpack, and hustled out the front door behind her. It didn't take much, all she had to do was mention the depressingly low number of days we had left in London and I was getting out my credit card. What can I say? I'm easily persuaded when it comes to travel. 


We took a National Express bus overnight (£45 round trip booked in advance, £60 for me) that arrived in Edinburgh at 7:45am. Jill had made a reservation at the Blue Rainbow Aparthotel, which was located less than 500 feet from the Bus Station, I kid you not - so convenient for ditching our bags before walking into town. Ordinarily, I would have read the "Scotland" section of my Rick Steves guidebook ten times before coming, but this time I obviously hadn't and had no idea what to expect. The solution to my dilemma: a free (college kids <3 free) walking tour at 11am. To kill time, we spent several hours finding breakfast and shopping around the Royal Mile in the Old Town. Our big spend was several lambswool scarves by Johnston's from the Highlands Store. 

The Scott Monument, dedicated to Sir Walter Scott. The ferris wheel is part of the Winter Wonderland Christmas set-up. 


Our walking tour was excellent. The company is called New Europe, and they do free 3-hour walking tours in cities across Europe. The tours are generally lead by students, who may be natives or not. If you enjoy the tour, you tip your guide what you believe is appropriate at the end. I had taken one of their tours in Amsterdam and been very impressed. Our guide this time was English, and although he spoke at a speed that any non-native English speaker would have struggled with, I had no difficulty and laughed a lot on the tour. What I like about the New Europe tours is their personality - the guides are knowledgeable and present all of the correct historical information during the tour, but their personality comes through easily as well. The dirty jokes and anecdotes that pepper their commentary makes history stick in a way it otherwise would not. I always leave with plenty of funny "did you knows?" and historical tidbits that could only ever be useful for Quiz Night at the pub or in a heated game of Trivial Pursuit. If you and I ever find ourselves in Edinburgh, you're in for a good time. I'll show you how to spit on the stone heart where the door of the tax office used to be, make you cringe as I explain the cruel humiliation criminals and thiefs were forced to endure as punishment, and entertain you with stories of graveyard ghosts.


We walked past all the major sights in the Old Town - St. Giles' Cathedral, Greyfriars Kirkyard, and Edinburgh Castle to name a few - ending in the West Princes Street Gardens. Both Jill and I wanted to backtrack to the Elephant House for a late lunch, famous as the cafe where J. K. Rowling wrote the first two Harry Potter books. It was doubly exciting for me because elephants are my favorite animals. 
  
  

We debated an afternoon activity in the cafe over pizza. The choice between the newly renovated National Museum of Scotland and Edinburgh Castle was difficult, but both closed at 5pm and we had to choose. The Museum of Scotland won because: a) free entry and b) Dolly the cloned sheep. 

By five o'clock, the sky was pitch black - darkness falls so early these days! We walked up the Royal Mile to the Castle but couldn't see much. Rather than doing a pub crawl that night, we decided to relax at our hotel, in relative luxury with a TV that works and dining room table. One stop at Jenners of Edinburgh for souvenirs and one at Sainsburys for food on the way, and we were all set for a perfect girls night. It was sublime to relax with tortellini, ice cream, Glamour magazine, and Bad Teacher. I'm not ashamed to admit that we were both asleep by midnight because we slept so poorly on the bus and because our highlands tour left at 7:45am the following day. I needed a full night of sleep to overcome the lurgy that had been plaguing me all week, but which I had ignored when buying my ticket to Scotland. Judging by my boss' use of the term, I think "lurgy" describes something between a head cold and the flu, but I've heard that it also means cooties. 

The next day was entirely devoted to a full day tour - Monsters, Mountains, and Massacres: Loch Ness, Glen Coe, and the Highlands by the Highland Experience. It was a great value at only £36. Our tour guide was named Kenny, and Kenny liked to play Scottish music and stories on tape in between his narration. Those bits were a nice touch, especially since a good portion of the 12 hour tour was spent in the bus. The first stop in Kilmahog was strictly for coffee and toilets. But we did meet someone very special there - meet Hamish, the Highland Cow (pronounced: Heilan' coo). 

My friend Hamish

We reboarded the bus with some fresh scones and jam (no coffee, for once). The view from our mini-coach on one of the few highways through the mountains, what Kenny referred to as the higgledy piggledy road, was magnificent - moody, saturated with deep blues and greens, with thin silver streams winding down the sides of each mountain. Those prone to motion sickness would have really suffered on this ride - the bus jumped up and down over bumps and rocked side to side through the nonstop turns. Eventually we reached Glen Coe. Glen Coe, the "weeping glen," was the site of the 1692 massacre, which was a horrific abuse of the Scottish tradition of hospitality. If you want the story, you'll have to look it up for yourself!
  
 The Highlands

 Glen Coe


Between Glen Coe and the next big tourist draw (Loch Ness), Kenny pulled over to show us the ruins of Inverlochy Castle - not the luxury hotel in Fort William of the same name, but the historic Old Inverlochy Castle, a fortress built in the 13th century and abandoned in the mid-17th century.  We climbed around the towers like we were in a playground, peeking through thin windows to see Ben Nevis, the tallest mountain in the UK. 


Inside one of the towers
  
  
On the way to Fort Augustus and Loch Ness, Kenny tried to convince us all that the Loch Ness Monster was not only real, but was in fact a clever female prehistoric aquatic dinosaur named Nessie. He was devastated when he realized that the majority of the group were non-believers,  even threatening to toss a few people off the bus. Jill believed, however, and was determined to find the "puppy" hiding in the long, deep lake. 

  


The sun faded early again, leaving us in darkness by late afternoon. Kenny made another unexpected stop in the forest alongside the highway, allowing us to stretch our legs on a hike up to a loud river crashing down the side of the hills. And he surprised us once more with a stop by Loch Oich to see the haunted Well of the Seven Heads. He really was a great tour guide, engaging, experienced, and intent on us getting the best experience time and daylight allowed.  

Loch Oich - I love the mossy wooden piers being swallowed by the lake.

There is only one thing I would have changed on the tour, and Jill would agree with me on this - I would have enjoyed an earlier stop in Pitlochry. The tour stopped there for coffee and restrooms before the the last stretch of road back to Edinburgh. The shops looked really adorable and unique, and from the prices in the window displays seemed affordable, but by the time we arrived (around 6pm on a Saturday) they had all closed. 

For dinner in Edinburgh, we chose a comfortable pub in Hunter Square called the Advocate: salmon and red pepper skewers with rose wine for me, pie and Staropramen for Jill. The ride on the overnight bus back to London was not without problems - for instance, we woke up freezing when the heat broke down around two in the morning, forcing us to huddle inside a rest stop for close to an hour while the mechanic tinkered with it. Thankfully, I slept through the remainder of the journey and woke up back in my beloved London, and all was well again. 

Curry Night & Flea Market, east London

At the risk of sounding like my professor (no offense, Anthony!), the cultural significance of a curry night in England cannot be over exaggerated. In the last two months, I have noticed that Indian cuisine is at least as prevalent in London as British cuisine. I first experienced curry on the plane from America - I was served chicken curry on a British Airways flight, and I wasn't quite prepared for it. To be honest, I had never been properly introduced to Indian food.

When CAPA offered a free "curry night" in east London, I was curious. Not one to turn down a free meal, I signed up tout de suite. Fifty or so students turned up at SHERAZ Bangla Lounge on Brick Lane. Before the meal began our professor, Dr. Gristwood, gave us an introduction to the food, the restaurant, and the area. 

FOOD
I would have expected Britain's national dish to be a hearty meal of roast beef and yorkshire puddings, or maybe some salty fish and chips wrapped in newspaper. But no, according to former foreign secretary Robin Cooke (and popular opinion) chicken tikka masala is "Britain's true national dish."

RESTAURANT
The restaurant is located on Brick Lane, in London's East End. The next segment of the introduction took an unexpected (and unappetizing) turn toward murder. Sheraz Bangla is supposedly located on the site of the pub where serial killer Jack the Ripper's first victim downed her last pint in 1888! Below is an illustration of the discovery of Mary Ann Nichols' body. Mary Ann was the first of his 'canonical five victims.'
AREA
East London has long been an area associated with poverty, immigrants, and crime. Various immigrant communities have settled there over the last two hundred years, including Hugenots, Jews, Bangladeshis, and recently, Somalis. But the East End's reputation is recovering, and its residents are no longer strictly immigrants. Walking around the area I saw plenty of hipsters on Brick Lane and fashionable young professionals closer to Spitalfields Market. 

My meal was excellent: chicken with Saag sauce (spinach in medium spices), a side of Bombay Aloo potatoes, and naan. I also tried some of Kristina's chicken in Korma sauce (a yellow sauce with a sweet coconut flavor). 

Afterwards, Kris and I decided to do some shopping. My friend Aalia had recommended that we come down the street to the American Apparel London Flea Market once we had finished eating. We had absolutely no clue what to expect. At around 8:00pm, we arrived at the Old Truman Brewery at #81, as per Aalia's directions. There was a long queue out front, but we decided to wait and see if it would move quickly. It did, and about five minutes later we were allowed to enter the warehouse...

Inside, there were racks and racks and racks of discounted clothing. We searched through endless rows of dresses and leggings and tank tops. In the end, I bought five things. Usually I try to save rather than spend, but it's against my beliefs to turn down quality clothes at 75% off. I walked away with two thick acrylic scarves, a lace and raglan shirt, a bodysuit, and pink tights for just £30 ($46). Not bad for thirty quid!



In other news, my beautiful cousins sent me a Halloween card and it made my day! My aunt is Japanese, and the girls are learning to read, write and speak Japanese alongside English. On the inside of the card, both sides are decorated with drawings, Japanese characters, and a few short and sweet sentences in English. Thank you, Maya and Julia! I'm sending my love to you stateside!

** I know that I haven't written much in the past three weeks. My mom and stepfather, Jamie, were here to visit from the 6th through the 17th, and I couldn't find the time in between class, my internship, and pretending to be a tour guide. However, I promise updates on their visit soon. Hopefully there will be plenty of photos of Windsor Castle, Devon and Cornwall, and the Oyster Festival in Falmouth!


Also, I will be traveling through Prague, Vienna, and Oslo in the coming week. Although I have traveled extensively for my twenty-one years, I'm a bit nervous. I've been to most countries in western Europe, the Caribbean, and even to South America, but this will be my first time traveling to eastern Europe and Scandinavia. It's time to rally my sense of adventure (and my roommate Amy) and prepare for an amazing trip! The night before a trip is like Christmas Eve to me, as if I bought myself a fabulous gift back in September and had to wait to open it! OH, WAIT - I DID! A trip to Austria, Norway, and the Czech Republic :) Wish me Bon Voyage! 

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