Day Trip: Stonehenge & Bath

When I began writing this blog post, I was so excited that it felt sort of silly. I began typing a manically happy review of my trip to Bath and Stonehenge. Upon re-reading, I became deeply emotional. And I began to question my happiness. And this is potentially very dangerous. Let me explain...

Two weeks into my semester abroad in London, and I am still practically euphoric at some point nearly every day. I love it here. I love my life. It's unbelievable. Unbelievable. See, there is a little voice in the back of my mind that keeps nagging me, trying to cast doubt, whispering that this incredible satisfaction can't last. 

Yes, I have been warned against the 'honeymoon stage' of study abroad, and the melancholy and frustration that, in theory, should be due within the next week or two. The culture shock/homesickness one-two punch is theoretically looming in the not-so-distant future. And the thought is worrisome. 

BUT I SAY NO.  I came to the UK prepared, and that includes mentally prepared. It will be a challenge - it already is - but I won't fall into despair in certain moments of vulnerability. When I can't count change to pay for my coffee (why is there a two cent coin but no quarter?)... During my 90 minute commute to work after early morning class on Friday... When Brits at the bar insist that my name is a boy's name. Yes, it sucks. But I've done this before - see France, spring of 2010. I struggled then, not always emerging victorious over sadness. But not this time. It won't always be perfect happiness, but it will be happiness. So now, strong and confident in my enthusiasm-realism balance, I can gush about Bath with no little voice undermining it :)

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For Saturday, the CAPA team planned a full day excursion to Stonehenge and Bath. Getting out of London to see the countryside sounded great, though it would require responding to my irritating alarm clock at 6:15 a.m. instead of unplugging it. Ugh. It would be worth it, right? My eleven roommates and I reluctantly left our beds, pulled on jeans and sweaters, and headed to the pre-arranged meeting point in the pale morning light and calm weather. 

The buses and our tour guides were waiting in South Kensington. As with our bus tour of London, CAPA had chosen Proscenium. They provide a good service - comfortable buses and knowledgeable Blue Badge guides. At 8:00 sharp, we drove west out of the city, past Fuller’s brewery and Twickenham rugby stadium. The stories of Roman times – Claudius, invasion, the tribes of Britain, Bodicea, Hadrian – provided the soundtrack for our exit of the city, concluding as we passed Richmond and merged onto the motorway.

  

The drive to Stonehenge, which massively predates Roman times, took nearly an hour and a half. It is the oldest of the old (even by English standards). As we neared the famous prehistoric monument, our guide explained in great detail what is known about the site, including the most recent discoveries and the mysteries that remain… I won’t go into it, but if you are curious, here is a link to the English Heritage website.  I had heard before going that visiting Stonehenge was overrated, but I disagree. The wind that morning was fierce, but the scene was very impressive. 

flatmates and stones

loving my Hunter wellington boots - thank you, AL & G Etz.

Our tour group only spent 45 minutes at Stonehenge, which was plenty of time to ponder its construction and to try to grasp how ancient the stones were. From Stonehenge to Bath, the drive was much more scenic. Despite the fall weather, the landscape looked as colorful and alive as during summer. I was excited to see a perched village near Limpley, which reminded me of France, as well as several pretty viaducts. (Stuart, our guide, mentioned that the viaduct that the Hogwarts Express traverses in Harry Potter is located in the Scottish Highlands – now, I want to visit Glenfinnan!)

Bath is charming. Beginning with the Roman baths was a smart idea - in doing so, we avoided most of the rainy weather that day. The indoor museum was unfortunately very crowded. Outdoors, however, the stately baths were waiting. They were incredible - the water is supposed to be very warm and rich in iron, but dipping your hands into it is out of the question. There was a wedding party inside, and the bride and groom were being photographed by the Great Bath, pictured below. 

All twelve roommates! My London family

The Roman baths

My friends and I used our free time that afternoon to search for lunch [Pasty Presto] and explore the city center. Later on, we gathered with the rest of the CAPA students at the Abbey. The Abbey's facade displays angels literally climbing the building towards heaven! From there, our tour guide led the group around Great Pulteney Street, the Circus, the Royal Crescent, and Royal Victoria Park, incorporating legends of the healing power of the waters and stories of the brazen architects John Wood Sr. and Jr. 

We boarded the bus at 3:45, and our timing could not have been better - it started to rain almost immediately after. I spent the return journey - a two and a half hour ride - admiring scenery, planning another visit to Bath, and napping. Some of the girls and I chose to go to O'Neils in Covent Garden last night, and we didn't return home until very late. I was at the Thames Festival all morning, but I don't think I'll make it back for the Night Carnival. I do plan on walking to the bridge in my PJs to watch the fireworks display - or pyrotechnics, as they're called here - later on. 

Cheers, friends. How was your weekend?

Vogue London Fashion's Night Out

What is Fashion’s Night Out? I think CNBC said it best: “late night shopping combined with champagne, give-aways and celebrity sightings.” FNO was an invention of Vogue magazine, intended to boost sales during a mega recession (in 2008). As far as I'm concerned, FNO is a night to waltz into high-end stores where I could have no intention of spending money and might, at any other time, have been despised by salespeople who work for commission - and be handed a free drink. 

In other words, it’s like Halloween for shopaholics: going door-to-door to various department stores, flagship stores, and other retailers expecting treats, i.e. cocktails.

  

Armed with three enthusiastic roommates, comfortable shoes, and indefatigable optimism, I boarded the Tube at Waterloo for Green Park.  We began our night at the bottom of frenzied Bond Street. Our first stop was Alexander McQueen.

We mingled among posh, fashionable Londoners and fellow dreamers (poor university students). We sipped purple cocktails in martini glasses. We admired the texture of the clothes, the smell of candles, and the visual displays. At one point, my sensory overload was so complete and overwhelming that I nearly cried. I had to grab onto a £1,150 Knuckle Box Clutch until I regained my composure. One of my roommates, Kristina, bought the signature FNO London t-shirt. 

Next stop: DKNY. More cocktails, more music, another give-away. We were quickly tempted back onto the street by rumors of champagne at Burberry. At an information booth, the volunteers directed us towards 21-23 New Bond St and offered us free Starbucks coffee. It was the ideal time for a coffee break, and we stayed outside for a while enjoying the weather that night, which was warm and mild. Ultimately, we re-entered the crowds of crazed fashionistas swarming in Burberry. My tall, blonde roommate Amy gravitated towards a luxurious lace trench coat, which she absolutely had to try on. She promptly lost her ability to speak simple English. Not surprising. 

In Longchamp, we sipped glasses of fizzy champagne before our first celebrity sighting in London - Gwenyth Paltrow leaving the opening of Coach's new store. 

At that point, it was getting late - stores were closing, and we needed to get home before the clock struck twelve (and the Tube shut down for the night). 

My darling readership,

Much as I would like to post every day, I have to admit that my everyday life will not always be as fantastic and interesting to you as it is to me. For example, today I attended a psychology class at the CAPA Center in South Kensington and then visited the Victoria and Albert Museum. Tomorrow I will be in class all day (studying international economics and British literature). On Thursday, I will be interning in Finchley. In general, la quotidienne (my daily life) isn't really thrilling enough to merit blogging.

HOWEVER. In lieu of posting in detail about my day-to-day, I will promise you some interesting posts later this week. Here's the line-up:

Thursday: Fashion's Night Out in London (Possible visits to Alexander McQueen, Christian Louboutin, Chanel, Marc Jacobs)

Saturday: Day Trip to Stonehenge & Bath

Sunday: The Mayor of London's Thames Festival (an end of summer festival on the river bank, i.e. just out my front door)

Also, if you hear of anything interesting going on in London, please let me know! I would happily take suggestions on how to spend my time.

Cheers!

London Markets and Clubs for Beginners

9 of 12 roommates! All lovely [at the Blues Room]

The 12th! Arrived late, but was quickly forgiven :)

All right, so the title is slightly misleading - I can’t recall any of the clubs I visited on Thursday or Saturday night as vividly as the markets today. So instead of telling you about the Zoo or the Blues Room in Leicester Square, or others in Soho near Oxford Circus, I want to tell you about the various markets I explored today with my roommate Amy.

Primrose Hill, located just north of Regent’s Park, was the starting point for our CAPA tour towards the Camden Town Market. The walk from Swiss Cottage tube station to the park took our group past rows of bright, neatly kept houses.  I made new friends along the way from Mizzou and Michigan State.The first thing that struck me about Primrose Hill was the number of dogs in the park; I hadn’t realized before, but I haven’t seen more than one or two dogs in the city since my arrival. [Quick kisses to my pug and my two English springer spaniels back home.] Connecting the park and the market was Regent's Park Road: It was very picturesque and I felt drawn towards every inviting café (though, sadly, did not enter). Surprisingly, just across a bridge at the end of the road lay funky Camden Town (a distinctive neighborhood within Camden Borough, where Primrose Hill is also located).

At the top or Primrose Hill, experiencing our first London rain!

The stalls at the Camden Town Market were hit or miss, but although there were several generic punky booths, there were also plenty of truly original vendors offering idiosyncratic and unexpected treasures. The smell of fragrant Chinese, Indian, Mexican, and Italian food… the sight of burlesque, goth, 50s style, punk, and hippy/ethnic clothing… the pierced and tattooed youth. That's Camden Town. Several things caught my eye, and yet I couldn’t commit to buying anything in the drizzle and with limited funds. After three hours of weaving through crowds, being beckoned to by vendors, alternately enthused and puzzled by their wares, we found Chalk Road tube station and left for Shoreditch.

 Which one is my roommate, Amy?

 So many colors... (or should I say, colours...)

With my trusty London Fog umbrella 

Old Spitalfields Sunday Market is amazing. We exited Liverpool Station in the heart of the City and followed the streams of people headed towards the Victorian market hall. I still have a natural high from my delicious lunch and the amazing jewelry and clothing I saw this afternoon. I have five new Spitalfield Market obsessions:

1. My new bracelet by Gia London 
2. The Hungover Cookbook by Milton Crawford 
3. Crepeaffaire 
4. Traffic People 
5. A leather bracelet/necklace with a gold flying pig charm

In the late afternoon, I felt genuinely British when I began to crave afternoon tea. Too fatigued to even consider brewing the tea myself, but too poor to seriously consider afternoon tea at a café, I decided to buy my first box of Earl Grey at a Marks & Spencer in Liverpool Station. Now, lounging in my bed with my computer and a cuppa (cup of tea), I need to research the company where I will be an intern. I need to be brilliant at my interview tomorrow morning. Wish me luck!

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Oh! And before I sign off, a quick shout out to Cirque Nova, who performed a piece called "Finding Epiphany" outside the National Theater on the South Bank at the Liberty Festival: London's annual disability arts festival. They were inspiring!

Overseas in Billy Shakespeare Land

Four days into my four months abroad, and I am finally making the time to sit down and write about my experiences in London. Why do I have to make the time? Because I am so busy exploring my new home and culture, of which I am quite enamored. Although every single moment here feels special to me, I’ll do my best to only report the “highlights.”

My flight here from Newark Liberty International went smoothly and we landed one hour earlier than expected (could it be that the UK is only a six-hour flight from New Jersey? It hardly seems possible…). I met one of my roommates, Kristina, at Heathrow and we split a cab to our newly renovated, centrally located apartment. Despite catching one single hour of sleep, I knew that my jet lag would only worsen if I gave into exhaustion. Instead, Kristina and I went out walking for three hours! I’ll just tell you that all of my roommates are lovely. In fact, several of us went to a nearby pub aptly named the Hole in the Wall, near Waterloo station, for a pint and some getting-to-know-you conversation.

Day 1, on Hangerford Bridge

Roommates, Kristina and Amy

Thursday was my first full day in London. Nothing too exceptional that morning, just a shower, a latte at Café Nero, and a new cell phone! It was a gorgeous, sunny day. My roommates - Anna, Danielle - and I went for lunch at a restaurant called the Sussex on St. Martin’s Lane. We ordered a pub sampler with fish and chips, mini meat pies, pickled onions, mushy peas, sausages, mashed potatoes, and battered and fried scampi. It was more impressive that I had been led to believe pub food would be. That afternoon, all CAPA students had a long orientation meeting, after which I went out with some of the girls living in Marylebone. Trying to return home from Oxford Circus after midnight was challenging because it was my first encounter with the bus system (the tube closes at midnight).

I began Day 3 with a handicap (hangover), but luckily was only required to sit through an internship orientation from 10-12. There is another student placed at the same office as me in northern London – named Amanda! We went out to lunch together at Wagamama, a local chain noodle restaurant. I gave into a nap that afternoon, but returned to South Kensington for an arrival reception: afternoon tea at the Regency Hotel. I am happy to report that I went all out: tea, scones with clotted cream, finger sandwiches (one smoked salmon, one ham and cheese), and a tiny fruit-topped cake. The speeches given by the CAPA team overseeing us in London made me feel protected and cared for – like I had fifteen cool new parents to look out for me and ensure that I enjoyed myself here.

At the fountain, with Amy, Evan, and Anna

That night, several of us left tea together to wander through Hyde Park. We laid on the grass in the center of the Princess Diana Memorial fountain until dusk, then slowly made our way to the Marble Arch to catch a bus towards home. However, the city was so enchanting at nightfall from the second story window of the bus that we alighted after Piccadilly and found ourselves in Trafalgar Square. The bronze lions guarding Nelson’s column were irresistible at night, and my roommate Amy, our friend Evan, and I climbed up onto the monument. Settled underneath a giant metal jaw, between the front legs of an immense lion, we watched the bustle of the square and admired the building that houses the National Gallery. Eventually, we hopped off our “playground” and set off down Whitehall. About midway down, a pub called the Clarence caught our fancy. It was small, with a young crowd, reasonably priced, and the hanging lamps over the bar were made of bowler hats! Perfect. We enjoyed some new beers and ciders, using our favorite free beer technique: claiming that we are Americans ignorant to the sophisticated beers on offer. The bartender, or a concerned British bystander, will request that we sample several beers on tap, or even the beer in their hand! Tee hee. I love it here.

After the Clarence, we continued our walk down Whitehall to hear Big Ben up in his clock tower. Across the bridge on the south bank, our friends were awaiting our arrival at the Hole in the Wall, where we happily joined them for a final half pint before turning in.

Today, we went on a three-hour guided bus tour of London. It would be useless to try to recall all of the information I absorbed from our tour guide; suffice it to say, the tour was fantastic, and my London bucket list has doubled in size.

Still no rain (I’ve probably jinxed it now), but with only that exception, London has turned out to be everything I expected it to be and more. 

Fashion Inspiration

Well, here we are: five days from my departure, with hurricane Irene about to descend on the northeast. I'll be at home in a self-imposed bedroom lockdown as soon as the rain hits, and I will not leave until I've finished packing my suitcases for London (with snack breaks, of course). As I mentioned before, packing for a semester abroad is a very selective business. How can I bring all of the necessities (for weather, work, etc.) and still ensure that I'll look stylish? I may have found my answer in the form of style and fashion blogs. 


Recently, I’ve been overdosing on British fashion (and fashion in general). I cannot stop reading 'street style' blogs, and the blogging community is often so tight-knit that clicking on one website will lead me to another and another, until my tangential searches have lead me to upwards of twenty new websites in an hour... Some of my favorites have been added to my “Websites I Love” sidebar. Overall, American fashion in the everyday sense is classic, laid back, and revolves around a few key items of clothing (recent phenoms Lady Gaga, Katy Perry, and Nicki Minaj notwithstanding). British fashion is never too polished, usually a little bit edgy or eccentric, and follows trends a bit more. British women are also excellent at layering. 


In the spirit of searching for packing inspiration, I have compiled a list of young British women (around my age) whom I find to be fashionable yet accessible. Theirs is the sort of British fashion I hope to emulate. 

Emma Watson: age 21, actor.

I adore Emma Watson – I mean, just look at the Fashion & Editorial section on her website!  In color photos, I think there’s something leonine about her boyish hair cut and light brown eyes, but in black and white photos she looks just timeless, almost flawless, simply beautiful. She’s a chameleon, and her age isn’t something you can pinpoint by looking at her – sometimes she looks far older than she is, and at times, far younger – just as I often feel at twenty-one. I think this young girl-young woman aspect of her look works strongly in her favor, and it’s slightly provocative. This girl is just dynamic, and I can’t wait to follow her career.

Florence Welch: age 24, singer-songwriter.

In my opinion, the best accessory Florence has is her gorgeous red hair, and she’s working it every day, with every ensemble. That being said, when it comes to her vintage-inspired look, the major fashion lesson to be learned here is flow. All of her costumes have movement, seemingly changing with the lighting. The colors are a big part of it, as well as embellishments like sequins, fringe, and print.

Carey Mulligan: age 26, actor.

Carey’s preppy style epitomizes my previous ideas of British fashion: classic, well-tailored, and tasteful bordering on safety (with plenty of trench coats). She is always dressed impeccably, and hardly ever looks even a little bit deconstructed. It could be the simplicity of the outfits she chooses or her short haircut, but everything she wears appears purposeful, deliberate, and organized. In any case, uncomplicated as her look may seem at times, she never looks plain – and the simplicity of her wardrobe doesn’t make it any less enviable!

Aimée Ann Duffy: age 27, singer-songwriter.

Duffy is Brigitte Bardot circa the 1960s reincarnate. She covers her curves as minimally as possible, with a black or white t-shirt or dress, but doesn’t need to show a lot of skin. Duffy allows all attention to focus on her heavily lined eyes, teased blonde hair, and full lips. Words like “bombshell” and “sex appeal” spring to mind, reinforcing the link in my mind between the iconic French actor and the Welsh singer. Her sultry singing voice doesn’t detract from the similarity either!

Alexa Chung: age 27, MTV presenter.

Oh, what can I say about Alexa Chung? Anyone who knows how to Google can type “Alexa Chung” into the search engine and discover her cult-status following. Her sense of style was formally recognized in 2010 when she was awarded the British Style Award by the British Fashion Council. It’s no wonder, either, as her style is so distinctive and unique! Not too polished or matchy, but not too festival either – lots of boyish pieces, stripes, and vintage. I’ll join the rest of the fashion world in saying I Love Alexa Chung! She’s an inspiration.

Sienna Miller: age 29, actor.

Sienna is well-known for her casual and often slightly bohemian look. Although she doesn’t experiment with different looks and colors as often as most of the other women on my list, she can work the red carpet, the characters she plays always have sensational wardrobes, and there is something to be said for having a facile, innately effortless sense of style. We Americans are big fans of key pieces and the laid back look. Sienna consistently chooses blacks, whites, grays, nudes, and lots of denim; her staples are jeans and ankle booties. She usually keeps her make-up very simple, but sometimes adds a red lip for glamour. And I might mention that she’s not intimidated by luxurious fur coats, dramatic capes, and eccentric hats. 

Also very inspiring, but not included: Kate Middleton, Fearne Cotton, Holly Willoughby, Kate Moss, Victoria Beckham, Helen Mirren, Twiggy. 

Working Vacation

This has been an extraordinarily busy summer. Compared to last summer, which was packed with the usual trips to the beach and the standard summer job, this summer has been double the workload. But not necessarily half the fun!

In addition to acing two summer classes at West Chester University (social psychology and psychopathology) I worked multiple summer jobs to save money for London. In between these commitments, and occasionally during, I’ve had some great times.

I’ve had plenty of opportunities to go into Philadelphia. On father’s day, I saw the Marc Chagall exhibit at the Art Museum, and more recently, Rembrandt and the Face of Jesus. At the Ritz East Theater, I saw Incendies, a foreign film in my second language – French.

In May, I attended the Radnor Hunt horse races for the first time; this year’s theme was the Great American Novel. I donned rain boots to wade into the stream at the Great Valley Nature Center, looking for bugs with my six-year-old neighbor. I spent several weekends in Ventnor, where I ran the Fireman’s 5K, learned how to crack open lobsters, and biked the boardwalk to Atlantic City.

I have also stretched my gourmet muscles quite a few times. I tasted my first chicken wings at Adobe Café in south Philly (crispy, spicy, and sweet). I also tried a ‘Lhasa Apso’ chicken sandwich and a ‘Whippett’ turkey burger at Doghouse Gourmet Burgers in Downingtown – and enjoyed both so much that I hardly came up for air between (gigantic) bites. I found a new obsession at Starbucks: the soy latte with toffee nut syrup.

Overall, I’m glad that I can look back and honestly say that I enjoyed myself. I worked hard and played hard… and I think I’ve earned a few adventures :)