Day Trip: Hiking Mont St. Victoire

Yes, I did it. I climbed Mont St. Victoire. The 18 km long, 5 km high mountain painted dozens of times by Paul Cézanne. And it was no easy task. I caught the bus near the Rotonde fountain in the center of Aix to the base of the mountain. My Norwegian friend Katja and I chose a moderate path, but we wasted no time losing our way and improvising a new trail! It took two hours non-stop to hike to the top, and an hour and a half to get back down. Here's some photos of my adventure:


Katja and I wishing we could jump in the water. Unfortunately it is solely for drinking :(



Choosing our path: we chose a mid-level one but got lost and ended up climbing the side of part of the mountain. Eventually we found a path but it was the difficult one; we were forced to take it to the top.  


When we finally got to the top, it was exhilarating, but my legs were starting to feel a bit tired. Katja told me not to worry, we use an entirely different set of muscles getting down the mountain. I wasn't exactly relieved to hear that. 


The blue lake in the back left corner of this picture is where we started from. The scenery made me feel like I was in the Lord of the Rings! I'm so proud of myself for agreeing to this hiking trip and completing the trail. Here's hoping that I won't be sore tomorrow! xo

Day Trip: Cassis

Bon Jour!! I hope you're all enjoying your Sunday and relaxing. I'm heading out in a bit to go to Marseille with Brittany's friends who are visiting from Florence, and tomorrow I'm going to ATTEMPT to climb Mont St. Victoire with Katja. We'll see how that goes!! But what I really wanted to show you in this update is how beautiful it was in Cassis, where I spent the day yesterday with my room mates Lauren and Katie. 





We were out of the house by 8am, hiking up the street outside our apartment to the Avenue des Belges, and then onto the Avenue de l'Europe to the Gare Routiere to catch a bus to Marseille. From there, it was a short walk uphill to the train station, where we bought tickets to Cassis for 4 euro - it's only 45 minutes away from Aix. The view from the train station in Marseille, the Gare St Charles, is amazing. The entire city is laid out before you, including a spectacular view of Notre Dame de la Garde. You can see it on a hill in the background of the picture below, where Katie and Lauren are sitting on the steps as we waited for our train.


Our train to Cassis departed on time (thankfully no strikes today), but the station in Cassis is very far uphill from the downtown area and beach. It was necessary to hike downhill for a while to get into town. On the way, we passed a large vineyard called La Ferme Blanche, where we stopped for un degustation (tasting) and to buy some wine for our picnic lunch. We ended up purchasing three bottles: two whites and one rosé, which I am seen carrying here as we left the vineyard. We used our French all day! At the train station, talking to the vineyard owner, and at the Office de Tourisme in Cassis. 


When we finally made it down to the beach, we were so impressed. The water was gorgeous, it was sunny blue skies out, and the town was adorable and clean. Every picture we took looked like a post card! Lauren and Katie had packed a lunch the night before: We had egg salad in pita wraps, and a really cool invention: they took a green, a yellow, and a red bell pepper, than cut them in half. Inside each half, they put fresh tuna salad. It was delicious, filling, and totally healthy. Then we had some dessert and lounged around on the beach for a while. Below is Lauren with her Chanel sunglasses and Longchamp bag, looking out at the Mediterranean. It's so easy being French!


Eventually Lauren and I got up and went in search of tickets for a boat ride around the famous Calanques - the rocky inlets that line the coast from Cassis to Marseille, about 15 miles. In the end, we opted for a 45 minute boat ride to explore three Calanque inlets. The trees that you see on the rock faces grow very slowly, but what's interesting about them is that they grow directly on the rocks, without soil! Cassis is the only place where you can find them growing naturally. 

The Calanques are also a very popular place to hike: we saw loads of people on the rocks from our boat. I even ran into my friends Jenny, Dorrie, and Mike; they were heading out to camp on the beach for the night! Talk about adventurous. 
Everyone was exhausted by the time we finally caught the bus home. However, it was much closer to the center of town than an uphill hike to the train station, and it was a bargain at 3 euro. It was an amazing day.

La Camargue: French Cowboy Country

Bonne Journée!  First, an introduction to the Camargue: The Camargue is a delta of the Rhône river, where salt and rice are the main crops. There are hundreds of bull ranches and the native Camarguais ponies roam freely. The wild horses are fairly small - they almost never grow larger than 14 or 15 hands. Their coloring is black or brown until the age of 7, at which point they turn white. The bulls and the horses are wild in that they sleep outdoors year round and hide themselves when they give birth, but they are still fed and used on the ranches. There are also flamingoes (les flamants roses) in the marshlands. 


Our first stop, shortly after entering the Camargue, was our hotel in Saintes Maries de la Mer where we checked in before embarking on a two hour horseback ride through the marshes. 




Immediately we had a little trouble. Brittany's horse bolted away in a full gallop the moment we left the stables, then hairpin turned and launched Brittany into the mud. She injured her ankle and was covered in mud, but as an experienced horseback rider, it wasn't the first time she had been thrown. To her credit, as soon as a replacement horse was available she rejoined the group and we continued on the ride. Here she is showing off her muddy pants post-fall.




My horse's name was Avon, and he was slow and somewhat stubborn, but every time we fell behind we got to trot or canter back up to the group. 


Caitlin's horse decided - just after the photograph below was taken - that he wanted to roll around in the mud, and she had to quickly maneuver off his back or suffer the same muddy fate as Brittany. She had to walk a quarter mile through the mud and salt water in order to remount her horse. Her fiancé, Adam, dismounted and went over to carry her - mais, oui! It was chivalrous and so adorable. 


One of my friends from CEA, Laura, was asked on a date by one of the young instructors (un manadier - a French cowboy). She agreed, they danced all night, and then in the morning he gave her a lift home... riding bareback on a wild white Camargue horse... at sunrise... on the first day of Spring. I would love to say this is a typical experience for the young American girl studying abroad. It should be. 

On Saturday, the afternoon was ours to explore the village. Curious students that we are, we began our exploration by climbing out onto the stone jetties stretching into the sea. The wind whipped our hair and clothes violently, ultimately forcing Allison, Brittany and I into a restaurant in town. For my meal, I ordered fresh mussels (délicieuses), but Allison gets kudos for trying a regional favorite - a steak of bull meat (taureau). Afterwards, we ventured inland to see the 11th century church in town. 




The name of the town, Saintes Maries de la Mer, comes from an ancient story of which there are many versions. I'm not the most gifted raconteur, but I'll relay just one version for you here. According to Provencal tradition, the 'three Maries' - Mary Jacobé, the Blessed Virgin's sister, Mary Salomé, the mother of apostles James the Greater and John, and Mary Magdalen - were expelled from Jerusalem in the year 40A.D. They were placed, along with Lazarus, Martha, Maximin, and Sidon, on a boat without sails, oars, or provisions. The Maries' black servant was not allowed on board, but one of the women threw her coat on the water, where it turned into a raft, and Sara (the servant) was able to reach the boat and accompany them on their journey. The boat made several landings, though it was the  Camargue where Mary Jacobé, Mary Salomé, and Sara would stay on. Their graves have became a popular place of pilgrimage. For reasons which are obscure, the legend of Sara was adopted by the local chapel of Saintes Maries, although she was never conferred sainthood by the Catholic Church. In truth, no one knows who Sara really was. Every year the two Maries and Sara have individual days of celebration, and people still make pilgrimages to see their graves and the church. There is a statue of Sara the black in the church, and many people pray to her. She is the patron saint of the gypsies (Gitans). 

In the church, there are a series of paintings called Ex-Votos, which are very moving. If ever someone was sick or injured, their family could paint a picture of that person in their bed, or a picture of the accident itself, and send a prayer to the Saintes Maries for them to be healed. In this painting, the two Maries are always pictured in the sky, and occasionally in their boat. Many of the paintings that remain in the church date from the 1800s - the date is indicative of the date that the person was healed, along with a thank you to the Saintes. 

An example of someone in their sick bed, and the Maries in the sky:



An example of an accident: The painting says, "Offered by Jacques and Maria Lombard, in recognition of the miracle accorded to their son Charles by the Saintes Maries de la Mer, Arles, 18??". Their young son is shown being kicked in the face by a donkey. 


Many of the photos were extremely moving: there were paintings of children in bed being held by their parents, a town building with it's roof collapsing on villagers, a man being trampled by a horse drawn carriage: all survived and placed the Ex-Votos in the chapel of the Saintes Maries de la Mer, with the extreme gratitude of their families. An Ex-Voto can be an offering to a saint, or a testimony to later visitors of received help. 

At dusk, the girls and I walked back through town to our hotel to change for dinner. That night we had a great meal in town; seafood soup (a variant of Bouillabaisse), chicken provencal, and chocolate cake. With wine, bien sur



The following day, we toured a bull farm. We had the opportunity to watch the ranchers (Stephanie, a friend of our program director's, her husband, and their 9-year-old daughter) demonstrate the round-up of a herd of bulls. I've never been so close to a bull in my life! They even started to eat the bales of hay that we were using as seats on the tractor. 


Our hosts served lunch in their home on the ranch, and then everyone in the CEA program headed to the Paul Ricard estate to witness the bull fights. (If the name sounds familiar, its because Ricard invented pastis, the signature provencal drink). About 20 professional bull fighters would enter the ring, dressed in white, and try to grab ribbons that were tied to the horns of each bull to earn cash prizes. In order to do this, they would run directly in front of the bull, reach behind them to grab the ribbons, and then race to the edge of the ring, where they would get a foot up on the low white ring and LAUNCH themselves to a safe foothold on a wall five feet away! They moved so fast, they looked like they were doing parkour! It looked very dangerous, and the bulls were presented into the ring in order of difficulty. Most of then had Provencal names, which is a dialect of French that is rarely used. One bull was named Verdau, which means green in provencal (vert in French). My friends and I were fortunate enough to meet a charming 15-year-old girl named Sonya, who alternately taught us the rules of the game and shared with us her crush on one of the bull fighters. She also taught us some words and phrases in Provencal. Instead of saying je m'appelle Dylan, as you would in French, one would say me deeshoon Dylan - that's written how it sounds as opposed to how it's actually spelled, just to clarify!


Well, that's all I have time for. It's raining out so I have a wonderful indoor day planned. First, I'm heading into a café in town to do homework with some friends - the café is called Book in Bar, and they sell English and American Books. I go there often, and I always order a café allongé, which comes with a Speculoos cracker and a small piece of chocolate. Sometimes I order a fresh orange as a snack. Later on, I'm seeing a movie called An Education, which is supposed to be very good. Today and tomorrow, movies only cost 3,50 euros! Its a springtime promotion. :)

A bientot!

nouvelles tardives de mon anniversaire (belated news of my birthday)




Koo Koo! (ça veut dire salut en français!) (ENG: that means hi in French)
  J'espère que tout va bien aux Etats-Unis. Ici, il fait beau depuis quelques jours, et c'est merveilleux. 



  I hope everything's going well in the US. Here, the weather has been great the last few days, and it's marvelous. 

Le printemps à Aix est venu rapidement! Il y a une semaine il faisait assez froid et beaucoup de vent, puis tout d'un coup le printemps est arrivé et maintenant le temps est agréable presque tous les jours. Même les SDF (Sans Domicile Fixe) dessinent "Merci" avec les fleurs aux couleurs vives sur le trottoir avec les craies. Malheureusement, ils existent partout à Aix. Les vieux hommes au parc jouent à la pétanque (un vieux jeu provençal avec deux boules metales et une petite boule en bois qui s'appelle le cochonnet - le but du jeu, c'est de jeter les boules metales vers le cochonnet, et celui à qui appartient la boule la plus près du cochonnet à la fin soit le vainqueur), où j'ai passé l'après-midi en faisant le bain de soleil avec Katja, Becca, et une nouvelle amie, Nina - elle vient de Jamaique! Alors, ça c'est tout pour les descriptions en français. Je voulais vous tenir au courant de ma vie quotidienne, et cette fois, j'ai décidé de vous raconter mes nouvelles en français; c'est impressionnant, n'est-ce pas?

ENG: Springtime in Aix came quickly! A week ago it was rather cold and windy, then suddenly spring arrived and now it's nice out almost every day. Even the SDFs (homeless people / beggars) draw "Thank You" with colorful flowers on the sidewalk with crayons. Unfortunately, they are everywhere in Aix. The old men in the park play pétanque (an old provencal game with two metal balls and one small wooden one called the cochonnet - the goal of the game is to throw the metal balls towards the cochonnet, and whoever owns the ball that landed the closest in the end is the winner.), where I spent the afternoon sun bathing with Katja, Becca, and a new friend, Nina - she's from Jamaica! So, that's it for my descriptions in French. I wanted to keep you informed of my daily life, and this time, I decided to tell you all the news in French; it's impressive, isn't it?

Anyways, here's some more in English. Monday was low - key, I got plenty of Happy Birthday wishes from my friends via Facebook, and got to Skype with my family back home. My roommates took me out for my birthday. Lauren took me to lunch at a restaurant in the Place des Augustins called Burger Bar - I ordered a veggie burger with avocado and onions and it was amazing! Lauren and Katie were the ones who bought me the crown you see in the picture below and made me wear it all night - but that's okay because the 20th birthday (le jour de mes vingt ans) is a major deal around here, and I was given things for free all night - croque monsieurs, etc. Someone else in my program, Will, who has the same birthday as I (March 15 - beware the ides of March!) and he decided to come dancing with us. This is Will and I at O'Sullivans where I met up with Brittany and two of Lauren's friends who were visiting from London. 

On Tuesday, Madame cooked cooked dinner as per usual, but surprised me with a cake afterwards! Don't you just love birthdays! Attention on me, presents, crowns, champagne, new dresses...  




On Wednesday, Allison and Brittany had a birthday party for me at their apartment on rue Méjanes. So many people came, and Brittany baked me a key lime rum cake and a chocolate fondant cake with espresso icing and strawberries. YUM! 

Tomorrow at 9am, I leave for the Camargue. Updates soon. Bisous xo

Dublin



Well, despite a few minor difficulties when I first arrived (such as forgetting to set my clock back an hour), my trip to Dublin was amazing. I was surprised initially by the street signs - I had assumed that everyone would speak English here, but Gaelic is equally prevalent - and that they drive on the opposite side of the road. Needless to say I was in heaven with all of the accents. Our hostel was clean and friendly, and a good deal for the price. They had free breakfast and we were allowed to use the kitchen to cook ourselves dinner. All of the girls in our room were relaxed and nice. Some guests were only there for the weekend, while others were long-term residents who were working jobs in the city. Since my flight arrived earlier than Fallon's, I explored Henry Street - a large, mainly pedestrian shopping street in Dublin's Northside several blocks from our hostel. 

On Friday night, we walked across the River Liffey to the Temple Bar Area, where we wandered in and out of a few pubs, clubs, and beer gardens. Quay's looked fun but was very crowded, so we continued on. There were (of course) several ostentatious "hen parties" making their way down Wellington Quay. Our favorite stop that night was Fitzsimon's. We climbed to the outdoor terrace on the roof to begin and worked our way down to the dancefloor on the second floor and finally to the bar on street level, where there was a band. The music was great, and we were just about to leave when they began to play Galway Girl!! Fallon and I were so excited, it was the perfect end to the night. 

On Saturday, we went on a day tour from 9:30 to 5:00 with an Irish tour guide. We wound our way through Dublin before following the Sally Gap through the Wicklow mountains. We stopped at the bridge (pictured below) where Gerard Butler and Hilary Swank met in the movie PS, I Love You


The Wicklow Mountains and wild bog lands still had their winter colors, even though the weather was very mild for Ireland when we were there. We also made a stop at Lough Tay Lake, which has dark waters the color of Guinness (picture below) and was used in a Guinness commercial. Our tour guide was fantastic; I learned so much and he never ran out of interesting information to tell us, the ENTIRE tour. Sooo worth our 22 euro. He told us that Paul McCartney, while spending time near one of the lakes that we passed in the mountains in Ireland, got the idea for a tune in his head. He referred to the tune as "Scrambled Eggs." Later, lyrics were added to it and it was retitled "Yesterday."


After we made it through the Wicklow Mountains, we went to see some monastic ruins in Glendalough. 


And hiked to some nearby lakes.


Eventually, we went back to the hostel, cooked a light dinner, and returned to the Temple Bar area. Unfortunately, that night it was so crowded with feather boa-ed and themed bachelorette parties that we gave up on the bar scene early. The next morning, we decided to begin our day at the Guinness Storehouse across Dublin. It was fascinating. As you walked through they had recreated the machines that are used in the factory, with some of the older out-of-use versions on display. We learned about the ingredients that go into the Guinness stout beer and the brewing process, and their museum had every commercial they had ever done on e-file and you could watch them all. My favorites were the ones form the 50's and 60's. We learned that Arthur Guinness, who started the factory, came to Dublin in 1759 with only £100. He set up a factory in St. James' Gate where he signed a 9,000 year lease with an annual payment of £45. Pretty amazing, huh?


At the end of the tour, our 11 euro ticket included a free beer in their seventh floor gravity bar, which had an incredible view of Dublin. I didn't actually like the taste of the Guinness, but I figured it was okay that I didn't finish my beer seeing as it was only 11:30 on a Sunday morning! As we walked back across the city, we stopped at some of the more famous churches. Christ's Church Cathedral (below) was much smaller than I had expected. 


Saint Patrick's Church was grand and beautiful, though. We stopped in the park next to it and saw families playing after morning Mass. It was really touching; it made me think of growing up going to our own St. Patrick's Parish back home! 


A long and leisurely walk finally brought us to the main shopping area, Grafton Street. AND I HAD MY FIRST STARBUCKS IN TWO MONTHS!!! We found a real Starbucks Coffee on the second level of a department store, where we bought sandwiches and indulged in peppermint mochas on a comfortable couch near the windows. Looking out on the street, we observed the charismatic performers and the families in their Sunday best. It was such a gorgeous day. I bought a sterling silver claddagh ring, which I believe is a tradition that started in Galway. The two hands holding a crowned heart supposedly signal that love and friendship should reign supreme. The heart is for love, the hands for friendship, and the crown for loyalty. When the ring is worn on the right hand with the crown facing outwards, it signifies that the heart is open. When worn on the left hand with the crown facing inwards, it means that your heart is joined with someone else's. That night we made ourselves dinner, went to see a movie in town, did some yoga and went to sleep. The next morning, we flew home. 
 ___________________________________

This past week of classes has been simple, routine. On Friday night I went out with my roommates, and yesterday I went to Marseille with Allison and Brittany. I bought a birthday dress at Mango for the party they are throwing me on Wednesday! In Marseille, there was a strike going on (to go on strike = faire la grève), which we believe was going on with the support of the sanitation department, because there was piles of trash everywhere and litter covering the streets. I hope the government gives in soon, because the city was very dirty (not to mention smelly). Thankfully, there is no such strike in Aix - we're still clean! At the end of the day, we went down to the Vieux Port and watched the sun go down over the boats. When we got back to Aix, we shopped for groceries at the Monoprix and cooked at Brittany and Allison's apartment. We made salad (mache with balsemic vinagrette), mashed potatoes, and chicken with cream of mushroom soup and herbs de Provence on it.  It was so yummy, and afterwards we watched A Good Year. Lately the girls and I have been doing yoga together, as well. 

This week, other than my birthday party on Wednesday, there will also be a weekend trip to the Camargue with CEA. Yay! We get to see flamingoes, take a tour on horse back through the marshes, and attend a bull fighting event. I'm very excited. 

la vie quotidienne

Well, things have returned to normal here in Aix - classes, supermarket wine from Monoprix with lunch, chilly weather and sunny skies. I went to the movies here to see Shutter Island with some friends - English audio, French subtitles. Because the movie is somewhat of a period piece, seeing the translations of 1950s detective slang was interesting. Afterwards, we spent time with some amis francais: Joanna, Thibau, Franck, and Antonin. Saturday night I went to a concert with Madame Raymonde, Katie, Lauren, and DJ at a chateau in Bouc-Bel-Air. There were five 5 musicians (guitar, accordian, clarinet, bass, violin) and they played Jewish, German, and eastern European music - all the roots of American Jazz. I felt like I was listening to the Chocolat soundtrack at times! We met some of them at the reception afterwards. 

In other news, I am finalizing plans for a trip to Dublin in mid-March with Fallon - a friend I met while visiting Sarah in Florence. We plan to arrive Friday afternoon and return Monday morning. We're staying at the Isaacs Hostel (47 euro for 3 nights); we will be in an eight bed all girls dorm with key card access, free wifi, and breakfast included. 

Please send me any ideas you have for sightseeing and adventures in Ireland! So far, our plans include exploring the Temple Bar area, taking a tour of the Guiness factory, possibly stopping in Kilmainham Gaol, shopping for a claddagh ring on Grafton Street (where we will hopefully find our first STARBUCKS in two months!), checking out Trinity College, and seeing Christ Church Cathedral and St. Patrick's church as well. 

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